Everything before the first chain
The pattern is written in sizes XS–3XL and is graded by full shell-mesh repeats, so every size keeps the stitch pattern balanced. The sample shown is Size M.
Make it yours
- More hip coverage: choose the next size up or add one 12-chain repeat to each panel.
- Less width: choose the next size down or remove one 12-chain repeat from each panel.
- Longer dress: add rows before adding fringe. Shorter: work fewer rows.
- Deeper armholes: leave more space open at the top side seams.
- Shorter side slits: seam farther down from the armhole to leave a shorter opening.
Pick your size once — the pattern follows
Choose your size from the widest body measurement you want to cover, usually the hip. Every number below and in the instructions updates to your size.
Pick your size in the panel and every number in this pattern updates to match. If you are between sizes, choose the larger one for a more relaxed beach-cover-up fit and extra coverage. Your choice is remembered on this device.
| Size | Hip range | Repeats / panel | Start ch | Panel width | Flat width | Rows | Shell units | Length + fringe | Pink yarn | Red yarn |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 82–88 cm | 12 | 148 ch | 39 cm | 78 cm | 128 | 64 | 83 cm | 5 | 2 | |
| 88–94 cm | 13 | 160 ch | 42 cm | 84 cm | 132 | 66 | 86 cm | 5 | 2 | |
| 94–100 cm | 14 | 172 ch | 45 cm | 90 cm | 136 | 68 | 88 cm | 6 | 2 | |
| 100–108 cm | 15 | 184 ch | 48 cm | 96 cm | 140 | 70 | 90 cm | 6 | 2 | |
| 108–116 cm | 16 | 196 ch | 51 cm | 102 cm | 144 | 72 | 93 cm | 7 | 2 | |
| 116–124 cm | 17 | 208 ch | 54 cm | 108 cm | 148 | 74 | 95 cm | 8 | 2 | |
| 124–132 cm | 18 | 220 ch | 56 cm | 112 cm | 152 | 76 | 97 cm | 8 | 2 |
Gauge
Shell Mesh Stitch: 42 sts × 17 rows = 10 × 10 cm, measured after blocking. Easier to check over 20 × 20 cm: 7 shells and 7 spaces across (84 ch) by 17 shell units (34 rows).
Work your swatch with the same yarn and hook, then wash and block it as you plan to treat the finished garment. Make it at least 12 × 12 cm, lay it flat without stretching, and measure across the central 10 cm. Match the stitch count first: more than 42 sts means your work is too tight — try a larger hook; fewer means it is too loose — try a smaller one. The 10 cm window cuts through half a shell on both axes, which is why the 20 cm measurement is the reliable one.
Width & length formulas
- Starting chain = 12 × number of repeats + 4. For your size: 12 × 14 + 4 = 172 ch.
- Length for your size: 136 rows (68 shell units) per panel — 80 cm before fringe, 88 cm once the fringe is on.
- To lengthen or shorten, add or remove rows 4 at a time (2 shell units, about 2.5 cm). The stitch runs on a 4-row cycle, so only whole 4-row steps finish the panel the same way for the borders.
- To pick your own length, measure from your shoulder to where you want the hem, take off the 8 cm of fringe, and round to the nearest 4 rows.
What you need
| Main yarn | Melissa Algodon Artesania, Artesania-6 pink, dye lot 0290. Each ball is approx 60 g / 240 m. |
| Quantity | For your size: 6 balls. (XS–S: 5 · M–L: 6 · XL: 7 · 2XL–3XL: 8.) Size M takes about 1300 m. Buy them together in one dye lot, and add extra if you lengthen the panels or want a denser fringe. |
| Contrast yarn | 2 balls Melissa Algodon Artesania, Artesania-9 red, dye lot 0290 — about 300 m for size M. The borders, neckline and waist tie take more than one ball in every size. |
| Hook | 2.5 mm crochet hook. |
| Notions | Yarn needle, scissors, measuring tape, stitch markers or pins, blocking tools if desired. |
About the yarn
The sample is crocheted in Melissa Algodon Artesania, a 100% cotton that stays light over a swimsuit and dries fast on the walk home.
This is what I use: pick the yarn and the colours you love.
Abbreviations — US terms
Learn the four-row rhythm
Foundation multiple: 12 ch + 4. Your size uses 172 ch, which gives 14 full repeats.
- Row 1 (RS). Work 2 dc in the 4th ch from the hook; the skipped chains count as the first dc, making a 3-dc half-shell. Rep: skip 2 ch, sc in next ch, ch 5, skip 5 ch, sc in next ch, skip 2 ch, 5 dc in next ch. Repeat across. On the final repeat, end with 3 dc in the last ch instead of 5 dc. Turn.
- Row 2. Ch 1; this does not count as a stitch. Sc in the first dc. Rep: ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in the center dc of the next shell. Repeat across, placing the final sc into the edge of the last half-shell. Turn.
- Row 3. Rep across: ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp, 5 dc in the next sc, sc in the next ch-5 sp. End with ch 2 and dc in the last sc to keep the edge straight. Turn.
- Row 4. Ch 1; this does not count as a stitch. Sc in the first dc. Rep: ch 5, sc in the center dc of the next shell, ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp. Repeat across. Turn.
- Row 5. Ch 3; this counts as the first dc. Work 2 dc in the first sc to make an edge half-shell. Rep: sc in the next ch-5 sp, ch 5, sc in the next ch-5 sp, 5 dc in the next sc. Repeat across. On the final repeat, end with 3 dc in the last sc instead of 5 dc. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2–5 for the rest of the panel.
Stitch notes
- The half-shells at the edges help keep the panels rectangular.
- When resizing, change the width by full 12-chain repeats only.
- For your size, work 136 rows per panel unless adjusting length.
Two identical rectangles
Make two identical panels in the main pink yarn, using the starting chain for your size. Open the panel to count your rows as you go — it remembers where you left off.
- Ch 172 for size M.
- Work Row 1 of the Shell Mesh Stitch.
- Continue in pattern, repeating Rows 2–5, until the panel measures 80 cm before fringe (136 rows for your size).
- Fasten off and weave in the main yarn ends that will not be used for seaming.
- Lay the panel flat without stretching and check that it is rectangular before adding the red borders.
- Panel 2: repeat exactly. Both panels must have the same number of repeats, rows and finished measurements before assembling.
Give it its shape
Neckline and shoulders
- With red yarn, work 3 rows of sc along the top/neckline edge of each panel to create the red border.
- Place the front and back panels together with the top edges aligned.
- Join each shoulder from the outside edge toward the center, closing 5 mesh gaps on each side. This leaves 18 gaps open for the neckline in every size.
- Leave the center open for the neckline.
Side borders
- With red yarn, work evenly in sc along one long side edge of a panel: work 3 sc over every 2 rows, placing 1 sc in the chain-row edge and 2 sc in the dc-row edge.
- Work 7 rows of sc total for that red side border, then repeat on the other long side of the same panel.
- Repeat for both long sides of the second panel.
Side seams, armholes and side slits
- Align the front and back panels at the side borders.
- Starting below the armhole, seam the red side borders together.
- Leave 25 cm open at the top of each side for the armholes.
- Leave 20 cm open at the bottom of each side for the lower side slits. Between the two openings you should be seaming about 35 cm — the openings grow with your size, the seam between them barely does.
- Weave in all ends.
The details that make it
Red braided waist tie
- Make a red braid or i-cord long enough to thread around your waist and tie comfortably.
- Choose the under-bust level on the garment. The braid can be placed wherever it suits your body because it threads through the existing mesh openings.
- Thread the braid through the shell mesh openings all the way around the cover-up.
- Tie it at the back, or move the tie position if preferred. No separate belt loops are used.
Fringe
- For each fringe group, use 2 strands of yarn. Fold them in half so each finished group has 4 ends.
- Cut the strands long enough to trim neatly to your preferred finished fringe length after attaching.
- Along the pink lower edge, add pink fringe groups into the mesh spaces and shell sections: use 3 pink groups in the spaces and 3 pink groups in the shell area of each repeat.
- At each red side border, add 3 red fringe groups plus 1 mixed red/pink group if you want to match the shown side accent.
- Hang the garment, let the fringe settle, then trim it evenly to your preferred length.
A note from Franni
This cover-up is made to adapt to you. Before wearing it, make sure the ends are woven in and gently block or steam the mesh only if suitable for your yarn.
Thank you for making the Rojas Beach Cover-Up. This is my first crochet pattern, and I hope it becomes a piece you love to wear and make your own.
Your feedback is warmly welcome — and if you feel like sharing, I would be delighted to see a photo of your finished cover-up.
